How to Fix a Leaking Tap at Home

Knowing how to fix a leaking tap before the problem gets worse can save you real money; Dripping taps can quickly add up to large water bills. A single tap dripping at just one drop per second wastes around 7,000 litres of water per year. That’s thousands of litres down the drain before you’ve even noticed a spike in your bill.

The good news? Most leaking taps are caused by a worn washer, a tired O-ring, or a degraded cartridge. Knowing how to fix a leaking tap yourself can allow you to solve problems before they become serious headaches.

Here’s everything you need to know.

Key Takeaways

• A dripping tap can waste up to 7,000+ litres of water per year.
• The most common causes are worn washers, damaged O-rings, and faulty ceramic cartridges.
• The type of tap you have (pillar, mixer, or ceramic disc) determines the fix required.
• In Queensland, maintenance and repair of a standard tap is considered unregulated work under the Queensland Building and Construction Commission (QBCC), meaning homeowners can legally do it themselves.
• A licensed plumber is required for full tap replacements, thermostatic mixing taps, or anything beyond basic maintenance.

Why a Leaking Tap Is Costing You More Than You Think

It’s easy to ignore a slow drip. But consider this: a tap leaking just 10 drops per minute wastes around 90 litres per month. Faster leaks can run to 20 litres a day, or up to 20,000 litres annually if left unaddressed.

Beyond water waste, a leaking tap can add $60 to $200 to your annual water bill, depending on the severity of the leak. Multiply that across multiple taps, and the cost adds up fast.

There’s also the risk of secondary damage. A slow drip under the sink can cause mould growth, rot the cabinet base, and damage the flooring over time.

What’s Actually Causing the Leak?

Before you can fix a leaking tap, you need to know where the leak is coming from. This tells you which part has failed.

• Dripping from the spout (when turned off): Almost always a worn washer or degraded ceramic cartridge. The internal seal has lost its ability to completely shut off water flow.
• Leaking around the base of the handle: Typically, a damaged O-ring. The O-ring sits around the spindle and stops water from seeping up around the handle when the tap is in use.
• Water weeping from the tap body or neck: Could be a cracked body, a loose packing nut, or a damaged valve seat (the connection between the tap and the spout, where corrosion or mineral buildup can prevent a tight seal).
• Leaking from the spout of a mixer tap: Often, the spout O-ring at the base of the swivel spout has worn out.

The most common culprit across all tap types? Simple wear and tear on rubber components. Heat, water pressure, and years of turning the tap on and off gradually degrade these seals.

Know Your Tap Type Before You Start

Not all taps are fixed the same way. Knowing what you’re working with saves time and a trip to the hardware store.

Pillar Taps

Traditional/compression taps have separate hot and cold handles and require a full turn or more to operate. These use rubber washers that press against a valve seat to stop water flow. They’re the most DIY-friendly and the most common source of dripping tap calls.

Mixer Taps

These combine hot and cold into a single spout, with two separate handles. If the spout drips, the washer or cartridge needs replacing. If the spout itself leaks at the base, it’s the spout O-ring.

Monobloc Lever Taps

These taps use a single handle to control both temperature and flow. These use a ceramic cartridge inside rather than a rubber washer. When they fail, the cartridge needs to be replaced entirely, as you can’t just swap out a washer.

Tools and Parts You’ll Need

For most leaking tap repairs, you won’t need anything specialist. Pick these up from Bunnings or your local hardware store:

• Flathead and Phillips head screwdrivers
• Adjustable spanner
• Replacement washers (assorted pack covers most tap sizes)
• Replacement O-rings (assorted pack)
• Ceramic cartridge (if you have a monobloc, match the brand and size)
• Silicone-based plumber’s grease
• Cloth or masking tape (to protect chrome finishes from spanner scratches)
• A small container to catch residual water

A full washer kit only costs a few dollars. It’s worth buying an assortment so you don’t have to run back to the shop mid-job.

How to Fix a Leaking Tap: Step-by-Step

Step 1: Turn Off the Water Supply

Find the isolation valve under the sink and turn it 90 degrees with a flathead screwdriver until it stops. If there’s no isolation valve, turn off the mains water supply at the meter.

Once off, turn the tap on to release any remaining pressure and drain the last of the water from the pipe.

Step 2: Plug the Drain

Put the plug in or stuff a cloth in the drain opening. Screws, washers, and small fittings disappear down plugholes faster than you’d expect.

Step 3: Remove the Handle

Look for a small decorative cap on the top of the handle and pop it off with a flathead screwdriver. Beneath it, you’ll find a screw. Remove it, then lift or pull the handle free. Wrap your spanner jaw in a cloth before touching chrome parts to avoid scratching the finish.

Step 4: Access the Valve or Cartridge

For pillar taps:

• Unscrew the tap cover (the skirt around the body) to expose the spindle.
• Use an adjustable spanner to unscrew the packing nut and remove the valve assembly.
• At the bottom of the valve, you’ll find the washer, held in by a small brass screw.
• Remove the old washer and fit a matching replacement. Don’t overtighten the screw.
• While you’re in there, inspect the O-ring around the spindle. If it’s flattened, cracked, or feels rough, replace it too.
• A dab of silicone grease on the new O-ring before fitting helps it seat properly and extends its life.

For ceramic cartridge taps (monobloc lever styles):

• Once you’ve removed the handle, you’ll see the cartridge assembly sitting inside the tap body.
• Unscrew the retaining nut and pull the cartridge out.
•  Take it to the hardware store to match the replacement – cartridges come left- and right-handed, so you’ll need a like-for-like replacement.

Step 5: Reassemble and Test

Put everything back in reverse order. Hand-tighten first, then snug with a spanner. Overtightening crushes washers and O-rings, which causes the leaking tap problem to return sooner than it should.

Turn the water back on slowly at the isolation valve, then open the tap gently to let any trapped air escape. Check for leaks at the base of the handle, around the spout, and at the isolation valve itself. A dry paper towel pressed around each joint for 30 seconds will confirm a tight seal.

When to Call a Plumber

Knowing how to fix a leaking tap is a handy skill, but there are times when calling a licensed plumber is the smarter move.

Call a plumber if:

• The tap is still dripping after you’ve replaced the washer or cartridge
• The valve seat feels rough or pitted (it may need to be re-seated with a specialist tool)
• The leak is coming from the pipework rather than the tap itself
• You have a thermostatic mixing valve tap (these require licensed work in Queensland)
• You want the tap replaced entirely rather than repaired
• You’re not confident shutting off the mains or working around the isolation valve

For anything beyond basic washer and O-ring replacement, a QBCC-licensed plumber protects your home insurance coverage and keeps you on the right side of Queensland’s plumbing regulations.

If you’re on the Sunshine Coast and not sure which category your job falls into, Universal Plumbing N Gas offers free quotes, so you can get a straight answer before committing to anything.